(To enlarge, click on the image).
I have attempted an Anatomy of Gus in order to reveal the monstrous yet pathetic defects of what tries, unsuccesfully, to pass as his evening clothes. In the image on the left we have Gus au naturale, whereas in the second I have added a diagram which, though seemingly complex, is rich in significance.
Let's begin with the collar: it is too low for such a thick neck. Gus is, in my opinion, a example of the classic sort of taurine American man. The lowness of the collar can only lead me to believe that it is neither detachable nor starched, that is to say the sort of North American rubbish made for the use and consumption of third-rate businessmen.
In the close-up, we can see how the collar of the tailcoat sticks out in an ill-fitting fashion. The tailcoat collar actually lifts up and literally detaches itself from the shirt as though strangely horrified by it. This means that the tailcoat (we are dealing with the tailcoat at the moment) is either pret-a-porter of the most dismal quality, or it's been made by tailor who's all thumbs.
The lapels: The bad quality of this photograph saves Mr. Goose from certain considerations. Are those peak lapels (marked in green) or a shawl collar (marked in red)? I hope it's not a shawl collar- (a real disaster for a tailcoat); a reflection visible near that horrid pink carnation makes one fear that the worst may be true.
Let's look further down: even here the poor photograph doesn't let us make much out. Gus knows that a tailcoat ought to be cut high across the waist so that a bit of waistcoat peeks out below it. Or does he? His vest is terribly long, long enough even to show off an unfortunate shirt-front sporting four obscene buttons, whereas everyone knows that one should shows off either one button or three. And yet no vest edge appears below the waistline of the tailcoat. I have a sudden doubt: could Mr. Goose be wearing a black morning coat rather than a tailcoat? Such a melange of civil uniform is enough to give one gooseflesh.
We took an interest in the vest; let's take a closer look. It really is too long, even for a man like him. Either he cherished a passion for low-waisted pants in his youth, which has lead him to show off an amusing triangle of underlinen between the vest and the edge of the pants, or the usage of suspenders is alien to him and (Dio mio Dio mio...) he is wearing a belt!
The proportions of the ensemble are entirely off: low collar, large shoulders, a long vest that's overly décolleté, low-hanging pants with high hems (the hems may be the only thing he got right, though the overall result is rather amusing.) Hence the Gus Goose effect.
In sum: if this is a dandy, then I'm currently tanning on a beach in Prague.
Sort of my point early. Some here do what they blame D.net for doing, so where is the difference? It is easy to find old photos in which people look less than refined. I'm sure I have plenty of my own photos as do you.
I have no problem with Sperelli's critique other than the fact that people here seem to whine when D.net does the same thing and then rationalize their critiques of others. Bricology appears to have as much enmity for Elkann and Chensvold as Chensvold has towards you. I suppose it is natural to take critiques by others personal, but didn't someone once say that the only thing worse than being talked about was not being talked about?
Now my good man, I was only making a point regarding photos and how they can be misinterpreted. I believe we all have such photos we would rather not see published as an example of our dandyism. Lord knows I have trunk loads. I believe many people start off early into dandyism by getting it wrong. They dress garishly or too flamboyant but as time goes on most seem to work out the kinks – it’s a learning curve. Even Oscar Wilde was the same since later in life he mocked his early days as a dandy when he would be seen in knee high pants and with a sunflower. Sometimes I think refinement comes with age and a photo taken in one’s youth may not be the best representation of one’s dandyism today. I’ve seen photos of Christian today and the photo above must be ten years old and may not be a sound basis to declare that he is or isn’t a dandy as the above posting suggests. Other than that the critique is spot on. He does look a fright in that morning coat. http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2110/2222557171_d0cc812ede_o.gif
I don't know how things are in Italy, but a morning coat is the preferred coat for certain events such as daytime activities like the races at Ascot, or weddings. At Ascot however, a white waistcoat is a big no-no. Would you know the context for which he is wearing this outfit?
If that *is* a morning coat, (which it might not be) then there is no context for such an ensemble. A morning coat is never worn with a white vest and bow tie.
In Italy the rules are the same as in England- the morning coat (or "tight" as we call it) is preferred for weddings.
I don't criticise in a random manner- and cruelty was not my intention. This photo was published recently on his site as representative of Mr. C.'s style. I simply find it amusing that he doesn't seem familiar with the elements that make up a harmonious silhouette.